Help on Judgement Call

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History Commands

[January 04, 2009, 07:18:08 AM] edwin .s.nathan: I live in a tropical country ie malaysia.Need to install air conditioning.Any idea on where to put the vents

[January 05, 2009, 10:21:13 AM] BusManVW70: Hello everyone Im new to the site and I have just added some pictures of my 1970 VW Camper his name is Fred enjoy..

[January 06, 2009, 10:03:55 AM] Jamesbehave: oh man

[January 06, 2009, 10:04:11 AM] Jamesbehave: talk about brain dead

[January 06, 2009, 10:04:22 AM] Jamesbehave: read my post

[January 06, 2009, 10:18:51 AM] JimmyD\'s: 1977 vw camper wont start HELP

[January 06, 2009, 10:19:09 AM] JimmyD\'s: her name is lucy

[January 06, 2009, 11:22:28 AM] Jamesbehave: whats going on

[January 06, 2009, 11:40:04 AM] JIMMYD: i have two shitty batteries I have been taking turns on trickle charges. So I put the fresh good battery in and she tries but

[January 06, 2009, 11:40:39 AM] JIMMYD: she won't flip. I've checked all the fuses.... rolled her back.

[January 06, 2009, 11:41:05 AM] JIMMYD: Found an old allman brothers ticket

[January 06, 2009, 11:42:02 AM] JIMMYD: the starter has always seemed fine.... no problems

[Trios]

Well, my engine is still leaking after replacing oil cooler seals. Based on where it is coming from, the only real possibility for the problem is the oil cooler itself. Bus Depot sells the original oil cooler for 79.19, and it will just mount right in place.

CIP1 sells this kit: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D5520

I have not seen these installed in any bus, and I would assume they are better for these reasons: gets the oil cooler out of the fan housing so you get full cooling for #3 cylinder, and it gets cooler air blown straight thru the oil cooler based on a thermostat, like most vehicles have for the radiator. Also, you increase the total amount of oil in your system which is always nice.

I would assume it is WORSE because you now have 10ft of hose for oil leaks, and more connections for a possible oil leak (goddamn I hate oil leaks). I'd have to find somewhere to mount it (I'm thinking left side of engine bay, where 2nd battery/gas heater would go?).

Has anyone here specifically seen/played with this oil cooling system and can give me feedback?

Thanks.

[74surfrwagon]

 

Well I am curious about this idea

[Dj:Eep]

I have basically the same setup, on the side of the bus, sans the fan.  It is in addition to the doghouse cooler though.  It works well enough as a buffer, and the oil filter is great.  But, I'd be wary of using it exclusively for two reasons.  One is aesthetic, one is functional.  I think it would look bad with the fan on it outside the bus, and sans-fan it would be inefficient at low speed.  And putting it in the engine bay will effectively cause the "#3 cylinder" effect on all four cylinders, as the oil heat is dumped into the engine cooling air. 

If you seal the tin up well, and keep it clean, a stock doghouse cooler should have minimal effect on #3, and be sufficient to cool a stock engine.

[VWBUSRAT]

Good system. Mount in front of the rear crossbar on drivers side. good luck
vwbr

[That_One_Guy]

I have thought about doing this but never wanted to mess with it. Also I have only one leak left to fix on the bus and that is the oil screen thing. I replaced it once but I guess it never got a good seal but the valve covers did. Anyone need an extra fuel relay... I have a brand new one never been used.... I paid 95 bucks for it and I never used it... I will let it go for 75 bucks....prob cost 5 bucks to ship it. Thanks....

TOG

[serenevalley]

Well, my engine is still leaking after replacing oil cooler seals. Based on where it is coming from, the only real possibility for the problem is the oil cooler itself. Bus Depot sells the original oil cooler for 79.19, and it will just mount right in place.

CIP1 sells this kit: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D5520

I have not seen these installed in any bus, and I would assume they are better for these reasons: gets the oil cooler out of the fan housing so you get full cooling for #3 cylinder, and it gets cooler air blown straight thru the oil cooler based on a thermostat, like most vehicles have for the radiator. Also, you increase the total amount of oil in your system which is always nice.

I would assume it is WORSE because you now have 10ft of hose for oil leaks, and more connections for a possible oil leak (goddamn I hate oil leaks). I'd have to find somewhere to mount it (I'm thinking left side of engine bay, where 2nd battery/gas heater would go?).

Has anyone here specifically seen/played with this oil cooling system and can give me feedback?

Thanks.

Thought about going in this direction myself for the added capacities and features which I think given the underpowered status of the bus (I have a '71 Westy) it is probably a smart move although some purists no doubt question it.  Thanks for the link...I may just go in this direction.
)

[Dj:Eep]

Thought about going in this direction myself for the added capacities and features which I think given the underpowered status of the bus (I have a '71 Westy) it is probably a smart move...

I don't get the concept here.  Adding a cooler doesn't add power, and an underpowered vehicle shouldn't require extra oil cooling, if you don't push it too hard.  And pushing it hard with an oil cooler won't do anything for the head temps, which is the biggest killer of aircooled engines.  As for added capacity, it does add capacity, but that just means more oil.  More oil doesn't do much but cost more, since oil pressure is what actually matters.

If there is a problem with high oil temps, I'd spend the money getting the engine running well, instead of trying to cover up the problem with a cooler.

[serenevalley]

Thought about going in this direction myself for the added capacities and features which I think given the underpowered status of the bus (I have a '71 Westy) it is probably a smart move...

I don't get the concept here.  Adding a cooler doesn't add power, and an underpowered vehicle shouldn't require extra oil cooling, if you don't push it too hard.  And pushing it hard with an oil cooler won't do anything for the head temps, which is the biggest killer of aircooled engines.  As for added capacity, it does add capacity, but that just means more oil.  More oil doesn't do much but cost more, since oil pressure is what actually matters.

If there is a problem with high oil temps, I'd spend the money getting the engine running well, instead of trying to cover up the problem with a cooler.

Presently I have no problems and I haven't had any problems up to this point.  I agree heat is the biggest killer but in own personal view 2.5 quarts of lube just doesn't seem enough capacity....to me.  I presently use Mobil 1 synthetic and it does run slightly cooler (Awhile back I installed oil temp, head temp, and oil pressure gauges).  The question I have is, how many other 4 cylinder cars use 2.5 quarts of oil?

[Wizzard]

IMNSHO , you're running a half quart low .

[GostaBerling]

Don't know about the T1's but T4's take 3.7 quarts of oil. 

[Dj:Eep]

The question I have is, how many other 4 cylinder cars use 2.5 quarts of oil?

But it isn't any other 4 cylinder car.  It's a VW.  It was designed to use 2.7 qts of oil. 

And the added capacity would all be in the tubing and cooler.  What is the benefit? A remote cooler can help if you are driving in mostly hot climates, or are building a bigger engine that creates more heat and friction.  But a stock motor shouldn't need it. 

I'm not just trying to argue, I don't quite understand what you are trying to do.  I'm trying to save you time and money, and your bus any undue stress.

[VWBUSRAT]

The idea of more oil is less stress on the oil. that translates to less stress on the engine. the more times it gets away from the crank case the cooler it becomes, thus when it gets back to the engine and thru the pushrods and splashes through out the heads, it does contribute to cooling the upper end. Porsche uses this concept on the 911. they keep 11 qts. of oil out of the crankcase by using the dry sump system and the oil is mostly in resovoirs and cooler tubing. I like more oil and have a added a 2.5 qt. sump and filter to get the5 qts. of oil out of the crankcase as much as possible. this is good in any weather...vwbr

[Dj:Eep]

I've heard of bigger sumps causing problems with leaving oil out of the loop, resulting in crud buildup.  I have a filter and remote cooler on my Westy, put on by a PO, and find it useful due to the increased heat output of the high-rev-loving 1776.  But a stock 1600 has something else wrong with it if it needs one.

If this is all about just feeling better putting in 5 qts of oil, so be it.

I'll be happy with my 3.5  As I will vouch for the filter.

[flyguyskt]

hmmm....

my donated '71 bus type Iv conversion has this installed on it. it was a half assed job just standing upright in the left empty space in the motor compartment...seemed really stupid to circulate hot air around in there so i cut a hole in the bottom of the  engine compartment and built a shroud for the fan. this way it will pull engine compartment ambient air out and down behind the rear tire and mud flap. i then sealed the area with RTV gasket silicone. i may have to put in a switch for winter so i can shut the fan off to allow for warmer engine temps. not sure yet cuzz the motor is sitting on a milk crate rite now....hopefully this weekend!!!!

[Dj:Eep]

Do you have the case tapped for it?