Clutch Lever Throw

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[January 06, 2009, 10:18:51 AM] JimmyD\'s: 1977 vw camper wont start HELP

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[January 06, 2009, 11:40:04 AM] JIMMYD: i have two shitty batteries I have been taking turns on trickle charges. So I put the fresh good battery in and she tries but

[January 06, 2009, 11:40:39 AM] JIMMYD: she won't flip. I've checked all the fuses.... rolled her back.

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[unclejay]

I have a dune buggy with a Type 2 bus tranny and hydraulic clutch. The clutch slave cylinder blew a seal so I ordered a complete clutch pedal-hydraulic line-slave cylinder assembly from CNC. So heres the question -

I noticed that since I removed the old slave cylinder, I can move the clutch lever by hand pretty easily, for a couple of inches, then I feel a stiff resistance I cant overcome by hand. I assume this is the point at which the pressure plate starts to move. Is this correct, or should there not be any free movement in the clutch lever arm ?

When i install the new slave cylinder, should I adjust the threaded rod so the cylinder begins to pull right AT the resistance point, or just BEFORE the resistance point ?

Assuming the assembly comes with no fluid, should I make the threaded rod adjustment before I fluid-up and bleed, or after ? Or both ?

I did search but came up nada. Help appreciated !

[fastmc25]

I have a dune buggy with a Type 2 bus tranny and hydraulic clutch. The clutch slave cylinder blew a seal so I ordered a complete clutch pedal-hydraulic line-slave cylinder assembly from CNC. So heres the question -

I noticed that since I removed the old slave cylinder, I can move the clutch lever by hand pretty easily, for a couple of inches, then I feel a stiff resistance I cant overcome by hand. I assume this is the point at which the pressure plate starts to move. Is this correct, or should there not be any free movement in the clutch lever arm ?
You are correct.... the free movement is normal

When i install the new slave cylinder, should I adjust the threaded rod so the cylinder begins to pull right AT the resistance point, or just BEFORE the resistance point ?

right to where you feel it slightly touch the pressure plate... then maybe a half turn loose on the adjusting bolt    Really it'll be trial and error on your application to see where it will need to actuate the clutch properly since it's not a stock setup..

Assuming the assembly comes with no fluid, should I make the threaded rod adjustment before I fluid-up and bleed, or after ? Or both ?

Bench bleed the slave if possible and then install..... it'll make bleeding a lot easier when it's installed...

I did search but came up nada. Help appreciated !