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Author Topic: both heads cracked... (sad face)  (Read 1463 times)
landboat
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« on: April 24, 2007, 05:43:03 PM »

Well brothers and sisters finally got around to getting my new exhaust installed. Attempted it my self but no can do .  102 bolts rusted on real good and needed some mods that i was not able to do... anyways took it to a mechanic unfortunately, charged me $325   Drogar-Shock(LBG) said it took almost the whole day... so i was not happy bout that then he informed me that the heads were cracked, both sides.. could he have done this when doing the exhaust system? so i ordered both heads from the bus depot(as epp suggested in another thread) along with a engine stand and  the head gaskets...definitely cant and wont take it back to the mechanic... now any suggestions on what else should be done while i am replacing the heads? bus basically feels the same alot quieter is it safe to be driving around like this locally?
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Dj:Eep
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2007, 06:27:40 PM »

Heads crack from heat, not from bad mechanics.  If you are gonna do this yourself, and don't trust the mech, pull the heads and make sure there are really cracks.  They would most likely be between valves and/or sparkplug, or around the exhaust ports.  Do a compression check before you pull the heads.  Then pull the exhaust and check the ports for cracks.  Worst case scenario if you are just driving local, you drop a valve. Not likely at local drivin temps.
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landboat
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« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2007, 06:57:06 PM »

DjEep really appreciate the quick reply bro. so how can i check the compression? The mechanic showed me the cracks one side is significant the other is not as bad but definitely cracked. there near the exhaust ports.
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Dj:Eep
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« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2007, 08:53:29 PM »

Ya need to get a compression tester.  Take out all the sparkplugs, screw in the tester to plug hole in a cylinder, hold opeen throttle, crank starter for about 6 turns.  Your meter will tell you what the compression is.  Repeat for other cylinders.  You want to see numbers around 100lbs or more, and close to eachother, like 115, 110, 112, 108 or something. 

If you saw cracks, then it is time for some new heads.  It's pretty simple, just follow the book.  Are you FI or carbs?
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Wizzard
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« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2007, 09:20:47 PM »

Being a lazy old Wizz I only take out one plug at a time . However what I do is take the cap off of the dizzy .
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Dj:Eep
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I think I brained my damage.


« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2007, 10:23:40 PM »

More work for you, and your starter.  Gonna be doing a lot of cranking, The less resistance the better. 
No need to drain the batt, even a little.  Just don't light one up back there... ::kablooie::
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landboat
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« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2007, 09:09:34 AM »

Carb.. think its a weber needed to change the air filter and had to order a weber filter (Rectangular) might be needing to look into a new one of those as well. getting alotta hesitation especially when i intially take off also still getting a lil. backfiring? get like a gurgling sound like spitting when it hesitates. is there a rebuild kit or am i better off getting a new carb all together?
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landboat
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« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2007, 09:26:14 AM »

What else should be done while the engine is out what? besides a good cleaning
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GostaBerling
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« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2007, 01:43:50 PM »

perfect time to change that clutch. It would sure suck to put the engine back in and a couple of months later have to pull it again to change the clutch. Also, while the engine is out, it would be a good time to fix any problems with the gas tank, new fuel lines and fuel filler neck would be a good idea as well. You could even flush the tank and repair or replace the sending unit if you needed to.
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« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2007, 12:13:43 AM »

If your heads are cracked ( sounds like you have a type 4 engine) then I agree it's usually a heat related issue. Make sure all of your engine tin is present and tightly screwed in place. Then buy and install a new engine seal, very important on an air-cooled engine. Then make sure your timing is set correctly. An cyl. head temp guage is also a good addition to the type 4 engine. Best wishes for a quick and inexpensive fix.
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landboat
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« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2007, 05:48:20 PM »

new heads came today woo hoo...  Banana Dance now any suggestions on installing these babys? how bout valve adjustments or are they pre adjusted? (stupid ?) but not familar at all.. gonna follow richard atwells steps on removing the engine etc... unless anybody has any better suggestions...
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GostaBerling
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« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2007, 06:10:23 PM »

I would check the adjustments on the valves after you get them installed. Otherwise, make certain you have a torque wrench and use new head bolts. Good Luck!! eusa_dance
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« Reply #12 on: May 12, 2007, 07:41:36 AM »

Here's the deal! if those heads are cracked it is because of heat. I know that the mechanics bill is a tough pill to swallow but there is a lot more to a type 4 engine than a type 1 and if the mechanic found those cracks then he sound like he has some moxie about what he is doing. be carefull about opening a can of worms. the valves will have to be adjusted after the heads are back on and both sides rocker assemblies are on. if you do this job your self be sure to check the cylinder walls and top edges of the pistons for signs of ware. good luck. vwbr
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vetterdog
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« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2007, 07:37:04 PM »

Check out my recent posts & the replies on "cylinder #3" - I am dealing with heat related crapola too- I'm sure some of the info provided by all these nice folks will help you. -Dave
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landboat
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« Reply #14 on: July 29, 2007, 10:35:17 AM »

 100 wanna get those heads in asap i know u guys gave alotta great suggestions, but is there anyway some one can gimme a list of stuff i can do while the heads are off an engine out? was thinking on a piston ring set,complete clutch kit(will this solve my clutch issues),fuel lines, fuel filler neck, cyl. head temp gauge( where can i locate one of these?) are they difficult to install? ok i know i oded here sorry guys...  Thank You
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