Happy
LoveMyBus Radical
   
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Location: Knoxville TN
Type: 1969 "DELUXE" Bread Loaf
Name: BETTY
Posts: 490
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« on: August 25, 2007, 08:48:49 AM » |
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Took off Bettys exhaust last night and found no leaks. Went to install J-tubes and the right front exhaust outlet bolts are corrodded so bad that the bolds wont come off AND the gaskets are GONE and there is 5mm of separation between the engine and pipe. THAT'S THE LEAK. I don't know what to do. I hope to fill the gap with high temp muffler fixer stuff for now. Any ideas???
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Happy
LoveMyBus Radical
   
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Location: Knoxville TN
Type: 1969 "DELUXE" Bread Loaf
Name: BETTY
Posts: 490
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« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2007, 05:44:06 PM » |
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I got the new exhaust on! Drove Betty all over for an hour or so this evening. The back fires are not as loud or violent. Here is my plan to fix the leak up front: I will cut up some of my extra gaskets and tap the pieces into the gap. Then I will coat the area with the exhaust pipe sealer goo I got. Even if this holds for a few months I would be happy. Also by having the tin off I was able to tap the stuck valve cover off from a better angle. Three out of four valves were tight (not much) and I adjusted them.
If you all have any advice on Betty's latest ailment let me know. I had a big smile on my face driving her today...as when I went to bed last night the back side of Betty looked like a bomb went off with tools and tin sprawled all over. She's a good bus!
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Dj:Eep
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Type: '68 Small Top Westy
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I think I brained my damage.
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« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2007, 06:22:03 PM » |
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Are you talking about the right front as in passenger side, towards the front of the vehicle. If you couldn't get the nut off, how did you get the new exhaust on?
However you did that, you need to pull the corroded stud out of the head and replace it. A set of vise grips and some PB Blaster should work for that. The gases at the exhaust port are in excess of 1200degrees, and will cook any cheap patching compound in a hot minute, no pun intended.
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DjEep goes "bump" in the night.
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VWBUSRAT
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« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2007, 07:00:59 PM » |
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Yep Dj:  is right...gotta fix the studs or you'll burn valves. good luck...vwbr 
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"IT'S ALL GOOD"  >
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Happy
LoveMyBus Radical
   
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Location: Knoxville TN
Type: 1969 "DELUXE" Bread Loaf
Name: BETTY
Posts: 490
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« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2007, 08:51:13 PM » |
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HEY you all! I replaced the "muffler" (if that's the right term) and left the old j-tube/heat exchanger pipes. The muffler just slides into the pipes from the front cylinders on my bus. The right pipe is the problem. I used PB blaster but this nut is really rough. It loosened...but would not turn. Will the stud itself come out of the head??? I might be able to do that. It's SO hard to work in that area though. I used the patching stuff and it will harden overnight. Might have been a waste of time though. I don't know what to do with this....might need professional help.
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Dj:Eep
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Name: Maybelline Laitor
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I think I brained my damage.
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« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2007, 12:00:53 AM » |
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Don't go pro. You can do it. The whole stud should come out and can be replaced.
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DjEep goes "bump" in the night.
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VWBUSRAT
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« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2007, 07:36:19 AM » |
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If the nut moves... rock it back and forth slowly with the PB on it till its off. if you put that sealer on it you got to scrape it off before the new gasket is put on...good luck vwbr 
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"IT'S ALL GOOD"  >
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Happy
LoveMyBus Radical
   
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Location: Knoxville TN
Type: 1969 "DELUXE" Bread Loaf
Name: BETTY
Posts: 490
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« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2007, 08:13:11 AM » |
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Good morning all! I woke up washed my face and drove my Betty for 45 min. The muffler patch paste held and the right side is quite as can be. NOW I CAN HEAR THE LEFT SIDE! You can tell by the trees as you pass them on either side of Betty under power. Now I have to look at the left side. If I had to bet money, I would bet that the expanding and contracting of that hot metal will blow out my muffler paste within another drive or two but we'll see. This evening when Betty is cool I will have a look. The backfiring is still there but it seems even-more-so not as loud or often.
PLEASE TELL ME: I have new J-tubes. Can I put them on WITHOUT removing that muffler again? I think I can, as the other end of the j-tube just slides right into the muffler. Let me know what you all think. If I have to take that muffler off and put it on again I'll cry like a baby....
THANKS!
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VWBUSRAT
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« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2007, 08:34:19 AM » |
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YES ! AND THAT POOP WILL BLOW OUT. Good luck...vwbr 
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"IT'S ALL GOOD"  >
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Happy
LoveMyBus Radical
   
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Location: Knoxville TN
Type: 1969 "DELUXE" Bread Loaf
Name: BETTY
Posts: 490
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« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2007, 05:59:04 PM » |
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The poop blew out .gif) You all hit that one on the HEAD! It was nice hearing a right sided quiet Betty for about 15 miles though. I will try to do those bolts again after I overnight PB blast them. That PB blast worked in like 30 min on the others. Even with chocked wheels and TWO jack stands I HATE getting under Betty. I might chicken out. You guys RULE  THANKS for you help!!!!! 
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Dj:Eep
LMB Resident DJ/WiseAss
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Location: In a bus, Oregonia USA
Type: '68 Small Top Westy
Name: Maybelline Laitor
Posts: 2618
I think I brained my damage.
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« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2007, 11:45:58 PM » |
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You get used to being under there. Just crawl underneath and zone out for a while.  first if that's your thing. But if you just hang out for a minute, you'll forget about the ton of metal above you.
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DjEep goes "bump" in the night.
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Happy
LoveMyBus Radical
   
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Location: Knoxville TN
Type: 1969 "DELUXE" Bread Loaf
Name: BETTY
Posts: 490
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« Reply #11 on: August 27, 2007, 08:52:10 AM » |
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Alright. Lets summarize:
I crawl under Betty and blast the bolts with PB blaster. The next day I blast them again and begin trying to turn them off.
IF I get them off...how the "heck" is the corroded thread going to take another bolt!
If the stud comes out, can you guys recommend a place that carries new ones.
* I REALLY want to do this on my own...so far I have been successful at everything I have tried and I don't want to quit now.
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GostaBerling
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« Reply #12 on: August 27, 2007, 09:18:49 AM » |
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Take the stud in to just about any autoparts store and they should be able to match one up for you.
If all else fails then try heating up the the nut with a torch.
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Check out Willy's blog: Life and Adventures of a bus named Willoughby http://willoughbus.wordpress.com/Life isn't about waiting for the Storm to pass... It's about learning to Dance in the rain!
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Trios
LoveMyBus Grunt
 
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Type: '71 Westy
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« Reply #13 on: August 27, 2007, 06:35:32 PM » |
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As far as getting a new stud in there, you might be able to find a proper tap for that size thread. If you can, just run the tap through once or twice and a new stud will go in just as easy as you'd expect. Just make sure you are going through the same threads and not making new ones in the same hole; to do this, you turn the tap backwards while putting pressure on the hole, and wait for the tap to 'slip' downward into the threads. Then, run it down about half a turn, out half a turn, down a turn, out a turn, etc etc until it goes all the way through.
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VWBUSRAT
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« Reply #14 on: August 27, 2007, 07:39:04 PM » |
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Take the stud in to just about any autoparts store and they should be able to match one up for you.
If all else fails then try heating up the the nut with a torch.
the threads are 8 x 125x35...metric. if the nut comes off by itself just clean the threads with a small wire brush and the new nut will go ongood luck vwbr 
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"IT'S ALL GOOD"  >
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