How do I drive this?

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[August 15, 2010, 06:54:01 AM] marko: how do you remove the brake light assembly 1977 bus?

[August 15, 2010, 07:01:52 AM] marko: after removing the lense, there are 4 hex shaped holes, but isnt designed to rotate. do I simply pull the housing from the bu

[August 15, 2010, 10:38:20 AM] marko: I got it, a flashlight and mirror revieled nuts, damn nuts. Thanks anyway.

[August 16, 2010, 08:09:00 AM] Dreads: Beetle got a good deal on it! guy has lots of '66 parts cheap, anyone lookin shout at me.

[August 17, 2010, 06:10:21 PM] kittykerri: I make cool van shirts!

[August 24, 2010, 06:23:47 AM] Le: Hi all no camper yet but looking

[August 25, 2010, 01:26:41 PM] Terry Stricklin: anyone know a good independent mechanic in the Toledo Ohio area?

[August 25, 2010, 03:52:57 PM] fernandob23: bus door wont close

[August 26, 2010, 06:25:39 PM] floridavwrentals: vintage vw bus rentals in Florida!!!  WWW.FLORIDAVWRENTALS.COM

[September 04, 2010, 10:38:27 AM] nursgon: bus heater boost fan?

[September 05, 2010, 12:17:00 PM] kokamo618: I'm putting in the headliner in my 73' bus. What's a good adhesive to use. Or know of any good tuturials on the installati

[Today at 02:38:38 AM] ryncole: bus depot has awesome people that help!

[74surfrwagon]

This on the outset looks like a very stupid thread title.

I have been driving high horsepower muscle cars for years and will be flying up to Portland Oregon next week to drive my 74 2.0L bus home for 13 hours.  I am used to passing everything on the road and going up hills like slicing butter, so I know this will be humbling to drive this back.

The bus does have an Oil temp gauge so how fast should I top her out on a flat freeway?
What is red line on RPM's? 
What is the acceptable temp ranges
How fast should I expect to go up a steep grade?

She is an automatic so that will make it easier but I don't want to push it too far or even get to the brink.  13 hour drive over two days I want to get home in one piece.

Thanks for the advice

Michael

[Recycle]

assuming it is a oil temp gauge 220 is about the highest you want to see your oil temps... I think.
If its a head temp 350 degrees maximum, going up a long hill etc...

Factory I think for a 1973 1700 is 5800 rpm's allthough the fan stops cooling as well at 4000  so I wouldnt run at 5800 all day long if you know what I mean.


I usually try to get a good running start going up the hills... I know going down 5 just before grants pass there are a few hefty hills, one of which the mykin.us guys burned up on a hot day. They were heading north but same difference. The hills are big, take it easy. If your bus is doing 15-20 mph there is something wrong... 30-45 should be a normal speed unless your loaded down major... My bus with a 1600 stock hit 35-40 mph going up a few of the hills with 3 people in it. So if your by yourself, and not weighted down I think you'll cruise up them without an issue.

From many of the tech heads I have heard opening your heater boxes doesn't, help much, but it can give you a sense of how hot your engine really is. Assuming you have heater boxes... The weather should be nice next week though, cool I mean, so I cant imagine you having any issues. Make sure you have some rain-x if your wipers are sketchy, it can really save you in this state. It should be a emergency item for vw's :-)  Feel free to call me if you have any problems I went and bailed out the mykin guys down in grants pass, and brought them up to Portland a few months back.

When you coming thru Salem? Maybe we can grab a beer 

[Dj:Eep]

Your bus may or may not have a head temp gauge.   the type4 (your engine) runs a bit hotter than type1's.  Oil temps should stay below 230, around 180-200 is good.  Head temp of 400+ is high but I think bearable if not pushing it for too long.  Take it slow on hills, don't try to hold it low in the powerband. 35-45 up hills in 3rd. Downshift, even if it means shedding 10-15mph.   If it is losing power after a long strech, take a break, or let it coast down hills in gear to turn the fan for some cooling, 35-45 in 3rd will be loud and possibly disconcerting, but it will cool the engine nicely down a hill.

They can take some abuse, but better to learn your specific bus before you push it.

[captnbilly]

I wish I could agree that an automatic makes it easier. in my experience buses live best when driven in their rpm range rather than a specific mph. With exceptions, I drive 3200-3800 ('77 westy w/ 'GE' series 2.0L F.I. & free breathing exhuast system) which yields in 4th indicated 60-80 (55-75 actual). In the summer 90's just past, on straight 40w, I was running 240-250F oiltemp, 375-400 cht(not calibrated but balanced comparing #1 & #3 cylinders) and dialing lambda to just slightly rich at say 13 F/A ratio using T2 2k rheostat. In hills and valleys i will build up that downhill momentum to 90-95 to carry it up the next but when tach drops to 31-3200 I down shift to keep engine on its torque curve AND keep that fan spinning. On flat land there is no way I can pull 4800 in 4th. How this helps a 2 speed auto (which takes a bit of hp off the road) I leave to you but if your crossing the rockies it ain't gonna be sliced butter. Regards and luck, Bill

[74surfrwagon]

First of all, thanks for all the input!

captnbilly...I love tech talk!

Tomorrow is the big day, flying up to Portland to get my new baby!  I am very excited

The information you guys posted will help a lot and I will start my two day road trip on Wednesday.

I'll tell you Friday how it all went and I'll get a hold of and maybe we can have lunch on Wednesday, I'll call you to see if its possible.

Wish me well!

Michael