LoveMyBus.com
July 30, 2010, 08:24:59 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Shout Box

History Commands

[July 26, 2010, 01:36:19 PM] Jon74panel: I'm burning 2 quarts of oil every time I fill up, I dread going up hills because its just a cloud of smoke behind me, help!

[July 26, 2010, 01:37:35 PM] Jon74panel: does this say drive no futher? I am 1900km away from home, do I limp it home?

[July 26, 2010, 01:38:18 PM] Jon74panel: Location:tofino,BC Destination:Calgary,AB

[July 26, 2010, 01:44:07 PM] Jon74panel: there is a small pool oil on the fan. *scared

[July 27, 2010, 02:49:48 AM] Beetle: http://www.type2.com/ & click on 'AIRS' icon.

[July 27, 2010, 07:45:05 AM] Orange_crush: help! acceleration problem.  bus can only go 5mph on hills..picks up fine on flats and dwon hill.  single carb. 2000cc  motor

[July 27, 2010, 09:04:10 AM] addicted: hey any one on?

[July 27, 2010, 09:04:44 AM] addicted: got a question abdout my piont set heating up

[July 27, 2010, 09:29:38 AM] addicted: poof of smoke from the pionts and gf claims from the dash aswell

[July 27, 2010, 09:38:17 AM] Beetle: Addicted: Post in the forum for better results.

[July 27, 2010, 10:56:36 AM] blue bus: does anyone know how to take the handle off the slider door ao a 74 transporter

[Today at 09:29:31 AM] scoobz: need help adjusting electric choke on 72 type 2

News:

In 1968, the (East Coast) suggested retail price of the Kombi was $2499.

 
   Home   Classifieds Gallery Arcade Calendar Links Help Search Login Register   LoveMyBus.com  
Click here! Live Chat
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5
  Print  
Author Topic: too much fuel  (Read 4219 times)
AllensRiviera
LoveMyBus Recruit
**
Offline Offline

Type: 75 Riviera
Name: Matilda
Posts: 65


Topic starter

« Reply #15 on: November 25, 2009, 10:11:29 PM »

Another update: I adjusted the timing again and disconnected the cold start valve. I tested the thermo-time switch and it doesn't seem to turn off. Since I don't have a replacement handy, I just disconnected the cold start valve to prevent the extra fuel.

We DID get the bus running! We can now keep it running indefinitely but we have to keep the pedal down a little. I have tried adjusting the big screw on the throttle body (idle air screw) but it doesn't seem to be helping yet. Any other suggestions on how to get it to idle?

I also found out something really odd (to me anyway). The bus runs without the fuel pump being plugged in. I have one of the wires off the connector and the bus still runs. How is this happening?

I know I need to time it with a light now, and probably check the dwell. I just don't have the light or meter yet.
Logged
surfah
LoveMyBus Radical
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Arizona
Type: 75 Campmobile
Name: Bob
Posts: 340



« Reply #16 on: November 27, 2009, 09:06:08 PM »

Now thats a Happy Thanksgiving!    41

Not sure about the fuel pump running like that  102

I'd have think about your idle for a while but at least you got some big light at the end of the tunnel.  Good trouble shooting on the thermo time/ cold start switch   Thumbs up! 3
Logged
AllensRiviera
LoveMyBus Recruit
**
Offline Offline

Type: 75 Riviera
Name: Matilda
Posts: 65


Topic starter

« Reply #17 on: November 27, 2009, 09:10:43 PM »

Thanks Surfah,

We have started the bus a couple of times now. It starts on command but I am still diagnosing the rough idle. Is there a way to adjust the throttle cable? I was looking in one of my manuals but I don't see any adjustable parts. I am thinking it might be the EGR valve but I haven't tested it yet.
Logged
surfah
LoveMyBus Radical
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Arizona
Type: 75 Campmobile
Name: Bob
Posts: 340



« Reply #18 on: November 27, 2009, 10:07:23 PM »

I think the cable gets adjusted where it hooks up at the throttle body.  I think I see where your going cause I tried to do the same thing when I was trying to get mine to run, but that probably isn't it.  You should get an increase in idle speed when you screw out the idle speed screw, so something is still amiss.  As for the EGR, I took mine out and put a block off plate over the hole in the throttle body.  Not essential equipment, not sure if it would effect your idle unless it caused a vac leak.
Logged
AllensRiviera
LoveMyBus Recruit
**
Offline Offline

Type: 75 Riviera
Name: Matilda
Posts: 65


Topic starter

« Reply #19 on: December 09, 2009, 07:06:07 AM »

The latest with the engine. I went to a local VW shop and talked to the owner. Immediately he thought I had a vacuum leak somewhere. I went home and started poking around. I found that the 90 degree boot that goes from the S boot to the aux air regulator had about 4 good cracks in it. I replaced it and started the engine. It now runs for about 5 minutes without using the throttle. Keep in mind I do have the cold start valve still disconnected. When I connect it, the engine floods every time. I also had the EGR valve and the aux air regulator disconnected for the first 5 minute run. Reconnecting these does not affect performance. After the 5 minutes, the rpm's slowly drop, then go up and down doing some rev searching, and then in a low cycle the engine will die. I checked the rest of the vacuum lines too and I dont see any other problems. I made sure all the ends are good so unless there are cracks in the middle of the lines they should be good.
What is my next step? I still haven't replaced every single ignition system component so I may do that. After the 5 minutes of running, the spark plugs (all of them) are very black and sooty. Could this indicate a weak spark and therefore a weak component?
Should I try to drive the bus around the block or use a fuel additive/cleaner to help clear the combustion chambers?
Should I redo the valve gaps to be sure they are correct?
Any other ideas?
Logged
Click here! Live Chat
surfah
LoveMyBus Radical
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Arizona
Type: 75 Campmobile
Name: Bob
Posts: 340



« Reply #20 on: December 09, 2009, 09:32:28 AM »

Any idea how long it was sitting before you got it?  My first thought was a clogged somewhere in the fuel sys.  If you haven't changed the fuel filter, might want to try that.  Drain some gas from the supply side into a container and see what kind of crud comes out.  Might give you an idea of the condition of the tank.

The black deposits could mean a few things, usually that your running too rich or the rings are bad.  May also be all the extra gas you pumped in with the bad cold start.  But I doubt if the rings are bad because of the compression you mentioned in the beginning.  Thats pretty health compression, which still makes me wonder what your previous owner was doing with it in the past.  Is it a new rebuild that he never got to run or did he replace/refurb the heads/pistons/cylinders?  If so, and it has new rings, they may have never had a chance to seat, since I'm assuming you bought it not running, yeah?  That would cause some black deposits too.  But anyway, that wouldn't stop it from running.

When it stops running do you have to wait a good while before it will start again?  Thats a sign of a clogged up fuel filter, so I'd check that first.  They're fairly cheap.  disconnect the battery before you start working with the fuel and have an extinguisher handy.  Be ready to catch gas and have some round wood (not composite) pencils handy to plug the line from the supply side.  Don't use a plastic pen because they melt and get stuck.    A clamp of some kind up stream helps too.  Be prepared for you first gas bath   LOL

I'd skip the additives, those get added when you fill up anyway.


Valves should be ok if you are confident you did a good job the first time.
Logged
AllensRiviera
LoveMyBus Recruit
**
Offline Offline

Type: 75 Riviera
Name: Matilda
Posts: 65


Topic starter

« Reply #21 on: December 13, 2009, 09:12:16 PM »

I have replaced the fuel filter and added fresh gas. From what I know, the previous owner parked the bus in the spring then tried to start it again in the fall. No engine rebuilds or other major (or minor) work.

I can start the engine again after a few minutes. I don't know if that is enough time for the fuel filter to clean out, but it is a new filter.

I have been continuing to diagnose vacuum leaks and came across some old posts of yours (surfah). Did you ever find the correct vacuum diagram for the 75 FI DVDA Manual Trans engine?

Do you have any idea about the 2-to-1 silver connection near the #3 cylinder? It is underneath the #3 intake pipe. My EGR vacuum line connects to one of the two connections and the other is a vacuum hose that leads through the firewall (do you know where it goes?). It looks like the silver part screws into the engine.

I did find a small size vacuum nipple coming off the back side (downstream/post filter) of the airbox. Some other 1975 owners say they don't have this. From what I can find this is for an EEC (I don't know what it stands for). Do I need to connect this line?

Does the size of the vacuum line matter? Does .5 mm make a difference? When I replaced the vacuum lines I just eyeballed the sizes. Should I have been more careful?
Logged
Click here! Live Chat
GostaBerling
LMBarchaeologist- I dig your bus!!!
LoveMyBus SuperSecret Agent
*******
Offline Offline

Location: Madison, WI
Type: 1972 Contempo
Posts: 3901


View GostaBerling's Album


WWW
« Reply #22 on: December 14, 2009, 03:18:29 PM »

Black Sooty spark plugs = to much gas. Black oily spark plugs = bad rings/seals.

If you remove the spark plug from a cylinder and ground it out to the case, then have someone turn the engine over, what color is the spark?

Is this symptom on all the spark plugs or just one/two?

What is the fuel pressure?

Have you tested the Temp II sensor?

Should I have read your post more carefully?

Good luck.
Logged

Check out Willy's blog: Life and Adventures of a bus named Willoughby

http://willoughbus.wordpress.com/


Life isn't about waiting for the Storm to pass... It's about learning to Dance in the rain!
surfah
LoveMyBus Radical
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Arizona
Type: 75 Campmobile
Name: Bob
Posts: 340



« Reply #23 on: December 14, 2009, 03:51:46 PM »

Black Sooty spark plugs = to much gas. Black oily spark plugs = bad rings/seals.

If you remove the spark plug from a cylinder and ground it out to the case, then have someone turn the engine over, what color is the spark?

Is this symptom on all the spark plugs or just one/two?

What is the fuel pressure?

Have you tested the Temp II sensor?

Should I have read your post more carefully?

Good luck.


 LMAO

I'm wondering if your fuel pump is jacked somehow   eusa_think  sure does sound like your failing to get gas after that five minutes.  I'll send a message about the other stuff later, still working.
Logged
surfah
LoveMyBus Radical
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Arizona
Type: 75 Campmobile
Name: Bob
Posts: 340



« Reply #24 on: December 15, 2009, 03:01:50 AM »

After chuckling at the last line of Gosta's post (sorry Gosta, all valid questions), I reread what you said about your symptoms, and if it is indeed rev searching before it dies, the problem may be still vacuum related, as you're already looking at with your hoses.

I gleaned much of my vac line info from Ratwells vac line article.  The pics at the very bottom was what I used, particularly the DVDA in black n white at the bottom left.  The two colored pic above them were useful for a real visual but remember that they are from a 79 Cali. so there's a few differences.

For the silver 2/1 switch, I took all that stuff off and mine wasn't hooked up right to start, no line was though the fire wall.  I think there is a nipple that's on the brake booster line underneith that it may go to, you can check it out if you want. 

My air box has a hack job PO repair where the nipple broke off, assuming it's the same one you're talking about.  I should tend to that sometime myself.  Yes hook it up.  And get the right size hose if you're in doubt about the one you already replaced, that way you can eliminate the little factors that can add up.

Tomorrow my daughter has surgury, so I'm going take my manuals with me for something to read while I'm waiting and meditate a little on your problem.
Logged
Fastmc25
LoveMyBus SuperSecret Agent
*******
Offline Offline

Location: Louisiana, USA
Type: 1973 Adventurewagen
Name: Clyde
Posts: 1997


King of the Road

View Fastmc25's Album


« Reply #25 on: December 15, 2009, 06:47:53 AM »

Tomorrow my daughter has surgury, so I'm going take my manuals with me for something to read while I'm waiting and meditate a little on your problem.

Hope all goes well with your daughter.......... we're thinking about ya... Thumbs Up! 1  

Oh ... and study up........ we might have a question for you soon.... LOL
Logged

"I spent the first 20 years of my life trying to bag some weed....... and now the rest of my life ....just bagging weeds......"

Peace,
Paul @ http://Lovemybus.com
www.arklatexvwclub.com

1973 Adventurewagen  2.8L            "Clyde"
1961 Deluxe Beetle "ALA...Original"   "Christine"
Click here! Live Chat
AllensRiviera
LoveMyBus Recruit
**
Offline Offline

Type: 75 Riviera
Name: Matilda
Posts: 65


Topic starter

« Reply #26 on: December 15, 2009, 07:10:13 AM »

Best wishes from me as well Surfah.

Gosta:
If you remove the spark plug from a cylinder and ground it out to the case, then have someone turn the engine over, what color is the spark?
I know the plugs work but I dont know the spark color. My friend was watching the plugs while I turned over the engine.
Is this symptom on all the spark plugs or just one/two?
It is all the plugs
What is the fuel pressure?
around 35 psi
Have you tested the Temp II sensor?
I have tested it only at the ~68 degree setting. I am now planning on replacing this.
Should I have read your post more carefully? I have covered alot but you are up to speed. I appreciate the extra perspective.

Surfah: I will continue to investigate and test the fuel pump. I have also seen the Ratwell vacuum diagram but it is missing a few lines that I have. In particular, the EGR lines and whatever that 2-to-1 thing is.

I talked to another VW mechanic yesterday and he gave me some fresh ideas.
1. Replace the temp sensor. He also gave me a way to test it.
2. Bypass the cold start valve. I have the electrical plug disconnected but he said it could still be leaking.
3. Check very carefully for small vacuum leaks.
4. Replace the points right now. Probably also plugs, wires, condensor.

I should be able to do most of this stuff tonight. I will keep you all posted.
Logged
surfah
LoveMyBus Radical
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Arizona
Type: 75 Campmobile
Name: Bob
Posts: 340



« Reply #27 on: December 15, 2009, 12:23:26 PM »

I crawled under my bus and sure enough there is a valve inline with the brake booster line shortly after the firewall tin.  After that there's a plastic connector with a long nipple coming out of it - bet thats where your silver egr doo-hinky attaches.  Maybe I should plug mine    Grin   You taught me something.

The hose from your air box goes to the charcoal canister, mines a clear plastic one, not sure of diameter but it's fairly big.

Thanks for the wishes, we're off to the hospital now, just a tonsillectomy.  That should keep her quiet for a while   LOL
Logged
Fastmc25
LoveMyBus SuperSecret Agent
*******
Offline Offline

Location: Louisiana, USA
Type: 1973 Adventurewagen
Name: Clyde
Posts: 1997


King of the Road

View Fastmc25's Album


« Reply #28 on: December 15, 2009, 03:34:13 PM »

ICE CREAM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lots and Lots of ICE CREAM !!!!!!!! You can glean some tooo..........  LOL

 Wave
Logged

"I spent the first 20 years of my life trying to bag some weed....... and now the rest of my life ....just bagging weeds......"

Peace,
Paul @ http://Lovemybus.com
www.arklatexvwclub.com

1973 Adventurewagen  2.8L            "Clyde"
1961 Deluxe Beetle "ALA...Original"   "Christine"
surfah
LoveMyBus Radical
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Arizona
Type: 75 Campmobile
Name: Bob
Posts: 340



« Reply #29 on: December 15, 2009, 06:10:56 PM »

ICE CREAM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lots and Lots of ICE CREAM !!!!!!!! You can glean some tooo..........  LOL

 Wave

I'm sure I will be gleaning, might as well, I've gained ten pounds since Halloween.

So I was looking at your EGR system while at the hospital.  Might want to consider retesting the EGR system because Bentley mentions that if it's not working it will cause it to run bad and stall out.  As for that silver thing-a-ma-bob, Bentley only shows it pictured and calls it temp switch.  Doen't even discuss it or show it hooked up.  I recall doing research on it and info is sparse.  I'm not certain that it hooks up to the brake booster line, but if you have a line coming from it that goes thru the front tin, that would be my guess  Mine was hooked up inline with a vac tube in the engine compartment, but that doesn't mean it was right.  I nixed my EGR stuff.

Happy trouble shooting
Logged
Click here! Live Chat
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5
  Print  
 
Jump to:  


Related Topics
Subject Started by Replies Views Last post
Fuel Leak
Vw Bus Repair Questions
ElectricMan 12 1676 Last post February 25, 2007, 04:03:52 PM
by ElectricMan
Fuel Pump « 1 2 »
Vw Bus Repair Questions
Trios 20 2584 Last post November 06, 2009, 09:11:57 PM
by bear
fuel
Engine
philnjojo 3 517 Last post January 08, 2010, 04:07:17 PM
by bear
Fuel Gauge Fault - my bus never needs filling up
Electrical
sapa 1 353 Last post March 31, 2010, 02:41:04 PM
by Fastmc25
5 MPG 2000cc Fuel Injected
Vw Bus Repair Questions
rknok 1 196 Last post May 09, 2010, 04:17:43 PM
by Dj:Eep
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.10 | SMF © 2006, Simple Machines LLC
Seo4Smf v0.2 © Webmaster's Talks
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!