here we go again

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History Commands

[July 26, 2010, 01:36:19 PM] Jon74panel: I'm burning 2 quarts of oil every time I fill up, I dread going up hills because its just a cloud of smoke behind me, help!

[July 26, 2010, 01:37:35 PM] Jon74panel: does this say drive no futher? I am 1900km away from home, do I limp it home?

[July 26, 2010, 01:38:18 PM] Jon74panel: Location:tofino,BC Destination:Calgary,AB

[July 26, 2010, 01:44:07 PM] Jon74panel: there is a small pool oil on the fan. *scared

[July 27, 2010, 02:49:48 AM] Beetle: http://www.type2.com/ & click on 'AIRS' icon.

[July 27, 2010, 07:45:05 AM] Orange_crush: help! acceleration problem.  bus can only go 5mph on hills..picks up fine on flats and dwon hill.  single carb. 2000cc  motor

[July 27, 2010, 09:04:10 AM] addicted: hey any one on?

[July 27, 2010, 09:04:44 AM] addicted: got a question abdout my piont set heating up

[July 27, 2010, 09:29:38 AM] addicted: poof of smoke from the pionts and gf claims from the dash aswell

[July 27, 2010, 09:38:17 AM] Beetle: Addicted: Post in the forum for better results.

[July 27, 2010, 10:56:36 AM] blue bus: does anyone know how to take the handle off the slider door ao a 74 transporter

[Today at 09:29:31 AM] scoobz: need help adjusting electric choke on 72 type 2

[surfah]

So I'm crusing down the hill about a quarter mile from home when my engine quits.  I manage to get onto a side street and took a look at the engine.  Nothing apparently wrong, I got juice, and can crank but it won't turn over.  My investigations lead me to the dizzy where I discover that it isn't engaging the drive gear.  My dizzy is pretty worn out, so I fiddle with the bracket for a while but can't get it to stay engaged with the shaft.  So I call my daughter and have her pick me up and take me home to get an old 009.  I come back, set up and put that thing in, manage to get it to run but it sounds awful and now my oil light comes and won't go off.  I shut down and contemplate what next.  I'm on a road with high crown giving my bus a right tilt.  So am I getting my oil lite because all the oil is to the right of the engine?  The oil level high for some reason too, way over the line.  I'll call my daughter again for a phone book so I can get a tow, but it takes her forever, so I decide to start it up and drive far enough to turn it around towards the main road, hoping that my oil lite will go out.  It takes me about a hundred yards to get turned around but the oil light is still on.  I curbed it and it shut down. I finally get the phone book and start making calls to tow companies that are to busy to bother with me.  While waiting for one that never showed I looked at the oil and noticed very tiny flecks of metal in my oil.

Which is why I say....Here we go again!

If any of you have any words of magic that can make my impending case split go away, please speak them to me!  But I don't see any other way.  Forensics time.

By the way, I'm still trying to get a quarter mile tow home, I finally gave up and walked home.  I'm waiting till off hours when someone might deal with me.  I was out there for 5 hours, two of them trying to get a tow.        

[surfah]

Baby's home, 9 hours after the ordeal began (or is it just starting?).  Going to wait for the oil to settle and check the level again, then take the plug off and see what comes out.

[Fastmc25]

Baby's home, 9 hours after the ordeal began (or is it just starting?).  Going to wait for the oil to settle and check the level again, then take the plug off and see what comes out.

Sorry to hear your bad luck.....  sift your oil through a paint strainer if you can..... then you can see whats getting damage.....  bearings aren't magnetic so a magnet wouldn't help much here.... 

[surfah]

Ok, did the oil sift, Thanks fastmc for the strainer tip.  It's officially ugly.  The shavings are silver, some magnetic some not.  Pre pull take apart today, engine out today with a miracle.

Concerning what I do know I'll need, is that Mallory unilite distributor a good choice because I'm going to need a new dizzy, might as well get the parts flowing now.

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[surfah]

Took off all outer attaching stuff, exhaust, and plugged the gas on Saturday.  Pulled and more take apart Sunday.  Down to case with cylinders still on Monday and case split Tuesday 2:15 am.  Cam gear came in contact oil pump, both shredded.  That's what I thought I'd find.  The cam gear was bolted on and the machinist and I had a hard time getting clearance between the two.  There was hardly any when I put it together so I guess I should have pushed the issue more than I did.  Now I'm paying for it.  Looks like all the carnage is confined to that compartment where the cam gear spins. I'll put up some pics later, got'a sleep now.

[surfah]

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Took my stuff to a different machinist today.  He said this was due to backlash being too tight.  That's scary because I thought I had that right when I put it together.  Oh well, like I've been saying - Glad this isn't happening in the desert

[Fastmc25]

I guess you rmechanic didn't know you have to clearance the oil pump when you use a aftermarket bolt on gear.... I usually shorten the bolt heads too...


when you put things together........ set the crank and cam in the one case half and install the new oil pump...... while rotating slowly you'll see how much clearance you have.... the bolts run really close...... I have taken a grinder to the heads of the bolts before and cut them to about half the height..... then use loctight on the bolts when you reinstall them ... just for insurance...be sure to torque them to proper specs though.........    CB performance sells low profile screws also...

BTW you can use a HD type 1 oil pump with no problems......  I have used the 28mm or the 30mm gear models....  but like before.... double check your clearances before assembly....

[Fastmc25]

Took my stuff to a different machinist today.  He said this was due to backlash being too tight. 

Crankshaft Endplay (backlash) won't cause this..... the cam doesn't move longitudally..... if assembled right the cam will have really no noticeable endplay and the crank endplay adjusted right or wrong wont push the cam into the oil pump.... 

If you set your endplay to .004 -.005 you'll have no problems with endplay.... 

 Incorrect endplay will cook bearings if too tight.... trust me ... i know 1st hand.... my front saddle bearing by the flywheel was blackened from the heat ......on one of my goof ups where i put the endplay to .003 or .002... it was tight......but ran good......

[surfah]

When I did the first rebuild I took the cam back to him twice to have the bolts grounded down, and after the second time it still barely brushed the pump nuts/studs, so I shaved off a little of the pump nuts/studs.  The backlash that the mechanic I'm using now is talking about is the mesh between the cam and crank gear.  That's where you put the crank and cam in the case half and run it backwards to see if the cam will jump out.  I did that and it didn't jump out but I remember the mesh being tight anyway.  Now I'm reading that there also should be just a bit of play in the mesh, otherwise the edges of the cam gears wear down and cause play, which is what we saw in my cam gear - razor edges instead of blunt.

Concerning crankshaft end play, I did get .004-.005, but just a statement about that measurement; it feels like precision target shooting with a catapult.  I used a homemade rig as per Muir, but it didn't feel good to me so I got a end play tool from J Bug, which was better but still seemed rudimentary for a fine measurement.  My bearings looked ok though, so I must have done alright.  I'm getting new bearing though at the direction of the mechanic.

[Fastmc25]

OK,  i understand what you were refering to on backlash problem..... yes the cam gear can mesh incorrectly with the crank gear... not a very common problem but with the aftermarket stuff out there now i guess it can be more of a issue.... there's really no adjustment that i know of to correct this problem other than getting another cam gear from a reputable engine company like Web Cams, European Motorworks, Or good ole Jake... and try it... 

But a note here.... that still didn't cause your bolt shear problem in this case.... the bolt more than likely was very close and as the engine got hotter the clearances declined...... and the bolt may have started to back out a small amount... just enough to make contact..... 

You may need a new crank gear also..... do a good inspection.... 

Goodluck.... i know your having fun right now....

[surfah]

Getting close.  $625 lighter from parts and machining services, but I should be putting the engine in tomorrow.  Test fire Saturday.  The date to ship my bus to the mainland - April 5   

[Fastmc25]

Hang in there.....  you'll make it... 

[surfah]

Put the motor in yesterday morning.  That was the easy part.  Since then everything has be fighting me.  I spent six hours plus on the exhaust today.  Took off the manifolds  several days back and gave the rest to my welder friend to patch up the heater boxes.  Got it back yesterday evening, tried to put the manifolds on this morning and found that one of the flanges had broken loose.  Finally ended up using another one I had (good old spare parts stash).  Then I had problems with the studs on the heads.  The machinist that did my heads didn't change the studs on one head and the treads are getting worn out.  I used some washers to get the nuts to a place on the stud that they could thread.  No time for real fixes now.

Then when I took the round sump plate off to put in the O ring, to my horror I found that the mechanic hadn't opened it up when he washed it.  the bottom of the plate was full of specks and bits of metal.  Scary.  I wonder if more is hiding somewhere?  Will do a oil change right after the 20 min. break in.

My mom came to visit a few weeks back, took measurements of my windows, flew home and made curtains.  I put those in today too, had to do something to cheer myself up.

I'd say fire tomorrow but I'm afraid I'll jinx myself.

[philnjojo]

Sorry to hear of your woes Bro...I've been following this thread, trying to learn by Osmosis. Just in case. (thanx for valuable info)  Sounds like you have got it whipped
Sending good JuJu yor way for the test fire.

[surfah]

Another jinx problem tonight.  Got everything hooked up, changed a push rod tube that I dented yesterday, adjusted valves, put in oil screen. So now I just need to put in the oil filter and put oil in and I'm ready to go.  The oil filter won't thread.  I've always had a problem with the heater box being up against the oil filter, and I hope that is all it is and that I can get some slack somehow tomorrow, but the beginning threads on the mounting flange look like they might be flattened.  No idea how that could have happened. If thats the case I may have to pull back the fan shroud an fanagle some way to get at the top nut on the mount.  I have a spare mount that's good.  I may try to pick up a Mann tomorrow, I'm trying to put in a Bosch but have never used a Bosch before.

This is turning into an emergency.  My bus is suppose to be on the docks for shipping this coming Monday.