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GostaBerling
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« on: May 25, 2008, 10:26:36 AM » |
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Ok, so I am trying to order a set of brake shoes. Seems simple enough right. Well apparently in 72 VW used two different types of shoes. Now, depending upon manufacture of shoes I get different methods of determining what shoes I have. (1) by shoe size, 9 54/64 X 2 1/4 vs. 9 59/64 X 2 1/4 in. That's a difference of approx. 2mm, that's kinda hard to determine. (2) by date of manufacture, either between 8/71 to 12/72, prior to 8/71, or to 7/72. (3) Finally there is by chassis number.
Currently, we are very hard pressed for cash. If we were not I'd go with busdepot.com and know I would get good quality and correct parts. But since that will not be the route that I can afford, I would like to go with a FLAPS. The cheapest set I've found is 25.99 and would take 3 days to get here, which is fine by me. The problem is that I have to know what size the shoe is before I can order it. Plus depending on who is behind the counter, it can be difficult to return special order parts.
So any suggestions as to how to determine size accurately to within a 64th of an inch or by date would be appreciated.
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"I became an archaeologist because I wanted to drive around in a big Land Rover, smoking, cursing, and finding treasure." - Carmel Schrire Check out Willy's blog: Life and Adventures of a bus named Willoughby http://willoughbus.wordpress.com/ |
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rastafoo
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« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2008, 11:12:37 AM » |
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Don't know if this will help. My Wolfsburgwest catalogue has pics of the different brake shoes, there's a lot of difference in shape between the early 72 and late72-73-79 shoe metal(it has a large notch near the top for a metal seperator plate to fit in - like mine) the early 72 has a slimmer profile with 5 holes thru the metal, not 4 like the notched late 72 one. Can't find the pic on thier website - only in the catalogue.
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"spirit is the journey, body is the bus"
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rastafoo
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« Reply #2 on: May 26, 2008, 11:20:32 AM » |
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Does anyone know if a small seepage under the rubber caps on the rear brake wheel cylinders (both sides) would cause enough air to get into the brake lines so that one could not entirely bleed all the air out of the system? I have good brakes when I pump once , then twice. I've been thru bleeding the system 3x (brake-fluid-in-plastic-bottle-with-hose-to-bleeder-valve-then-pump method) and I still seem to have air in it. (gets a little better each time).
Could it be the master cylinder? Would there be visible liquid present or can it go bad another way?
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"spirit is the journey, body is the bus"
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GostaBerling
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« Reply #3 on: May 26, 2008, 02:05:46 PM » |
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Well I took the drums off and the brakes are not that bad. I adjusted the shoes, driver side star adjuster was frozen, and now I have an emergency brake. Yea!!!
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"I became an archaeologist because I wanted to drive around in a big Land Rover, smoking, cursing, and finding treasure." - Carmel Schrire Check out Willy's blog: Life and Adventures of a bus named Willoughby http://willoughbus.wordpress.com/ |
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fastmc25
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« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2008, 03:10:07 PM » |
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Glad to hear you got them up to speed........ Did you figure out which ones you had so next time you need to replace them you'll know...? My '73 is that way.......... some early 73 parts and some late 73 parts.......... I just went through this with my fuel sender.... since you know you normally have to pull the engine/tank to get it out.... what a pain......... I guess i now have a early 73 sender in my bus and a late 73 gauge.... wrong resistance so it reads full for about 1 gallon and empty in about 10 gallons left....... I may just try and change the gauge.......  |
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A day without a Vw is like ................"Night"...
Peace,
Paul
1973 Adventurewagen 2.8L "Clyde"
1970 Formula Vee Beetle 2276 DTM "Herb"
1961 Deluxe Beetle "ALA...Original" "Christine"
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fastmc25
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« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2008, 03:17:45 PM » |
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Does anyone know if a small seepage under the rubber caps on the rear brake wheel cylinders (both sides) would cause enough air to get into the brake lines so that one could not entirely bleed all the air out of the system?
Not normally enough to not be able to completely bleed them out....... but is a good indication that it's time to change them out.....
I have good brakes when I pump once , then twice. I've been thru bleeding the system 3x (brake-fluid-in-plastic-bottle-with-hose-to-bleeder-valve-then-pump method) and I still seem to have air in it. (gets a little better each time).
Do you hae a friend that helps you bleed the system and or do you do it alone ? If the latter i'd get someone to pump the brakes while your under opening and closing the bleeders farthest to nearest as you bleed them... ( Old School) .... Then if it doesn't come out i would bet on a bad M/C...
Could it be the master cylinder? Would there be visible liquid present or can it go bad another way?
Yeah, it very well will be the Master Cylinder........ they will give up and never leak......
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A day without a Vw is like ................"Night"...
Peace,
Paul
1973 Adventurewagen 2.8L "Clyde"
1970 Formula Vee Beetle 2276 DTM "Herb"
1961 Deluxe Beetle "ALA...Original" "Christine"
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olylawnboy
LoveMyBus Elite Radical
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Location: Oly Wa
Type: 68 Panel
Name: Winnie the Blue
Posts: 520
Long Live the Vw's...
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« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2008, 12:31:40 AM » |
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Hey rasta, anytime fluid can leak out air can get in, period, end of sentence  And my master cylinder has been leaking also. Very little though, not even enough to leave a mark on the pavement. That's why I did not notice any problem with mine. Cylinder rebuild kits from NAPA are about six bucks each and easy to do, do that! And like fastmc said and I can relate to, the master can leak with little or no evidence. And Gosta, if you have a NAPA they can have most anything to you overnight, they have quite a network!.... |
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When I feed the poor, they call me a saint. When I ask why the poor have no food, they call me a communist. - Dom Helder Camara
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vdubyah73
LoveMyBus Elite Radical
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Location: Cape Cod, Mass
Type: 77 deluxe
Name: 3 of 7
Posts: 529
CHANGE THOSE FUEL LINES, ALL OF THEM.
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« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2008, 04:12:24 AM » |
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And when ya bleed 'em, keep bleeding until all that muddy brake fluid has been flushed out. The mud color is moisture absorbed by the brake fluid.
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BusDriver
LoveMyBus Recruit
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Location: Oregon Country
Type: 74 Westfalia
Name: Maggie
Posts: 56
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« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2008, 11:15:18 PM » |
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Bleh, adjusting stars, getting to them, bending my adjusting hole into a rectangle, and brake dust. Just experienced those today.
I know shoes and pads have asbestos in them, how cautious do I need to be around the brake dust left in the drums?
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Bringing back a 74 Westy after 3 years of sitting. Running strong after 92 days of LMB!
17MPG(I think) - 009 Dizzy, Electric Fuel Pump, Weber 32/36 DFAV carb, Short in some component in the 7th Fuse, rust, rust, rust.
All Awesome.
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Happy
LoveMyBus Radical
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Location: Knoxville TN
Type: 1969 "DELUXE" Bread Loaf
Name: BETTY
Posts: 486
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« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2008, 06:02:01 AM » |
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With the drum removed, I used a can or two of the brake cleaner spray. It evaporates in like 10 seconds and washes away all of your brake dust safely. No worries!
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rastafoo
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« Reply #10 on: August 01, 2008, 03:36:34 PM » |
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My shoes are squeeking when hot - I need to get in and clean out the dust and adjust them this weekend. .gif) |
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"spirit is the journey, body is the bus"
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bus71
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« Reply #11 on: August 03, 2008, 11:22:13 AM » |
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One way to tell what shoes is by comparing wheel cylinders. If you can, look at a later bus wheel cyl. If you have a short cyl, it's 71, if longer, its 73up. Be aware, backing plates can be changed so a 71 could have a long wheel cyl. and late shoes. I go through the late, early thing with our 71 also. Good luck!
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"Fixing old crap since 1965"
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