Frozen stars on the right rear brakes

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History Commands

[July 26, 2010, 01:36:19 PM] Jon74panel: I'm burning 2 quarts of oil every time I fill up, I dread going up hills because its just a cloud of smoke behind me, help!

[July 26, 2010, 01:37:35 PM] Jon74panel: does this say drive no futher? I am 1900km away from home, do I limp it home?

[July 26, 2010, 01:38:18 PM] Jon74panel: Location:tofino,BC Destination:Calgary,AB

[July 26, 2010, 01:44:07 PM] Jon74panel: there is a small pool oil on the fan. *scared

[July 27, 2010, 02:49:48 AM] Beetle: http://www.type2.com/ & click on 'AIRS' icon.

[July 27, 2010, 07:45:05 AM] Orange_crush: help! acceleration problem.  bus can only go 5mph on hills..picks up fine on flats and dwon hill.  single carb. 2000cc  motor

[July 27, 2010, 09:04:10 AM] addicted: hey any one on?

[July 27, 2010, 09:04:44 AM] addicted: got a question abdout my piont set heating up

[July 27, 2010, 09:29:38 AM] addicted: poof of smoke from the pionts and gf claims from the dash aswell

[July 27, 2010, 09:38:17 AM] Beetle: Addicted: Post in the forum for better results.

[July 27, 2010, 10:56:36 AM] blue bus: does anyone know how to take the handle off the slider door ao a 74 transporter

[Today at 09:29:31 AM] scoobz: need help adjusting electric choke on 72 type 2

[BryGer]

I have a 1971 type II with disc in the front, drum in the rear. The front brakes are fine, but the right rear has frozen stars that I cannot move in the least for the life of me. The left side has shoes that are getting thin and should be replaced soon. He pulls to the left slightly when I test "panic stop". Ideas?

[GostaBerling]

Try soaking them with PB Blaster. Do this everyday for at least one week.

[vdubyah73]

Hammer and blunt chisel or sacrificial screwdriver. Make sure you are beating it in the correct direction. The star is a nut, you want the adjuster stud to tighten into the star. so do the mental exercise, lefty loosey, righty tighty, while under the bus. Right rear, front adjuster goes up, rear one goes down? I did that in my chair leaning to the left with my eyes closed. Twisting imaginary nuts and bolts with my hands.


PS the above is for backing them off so you can remove the drum.

[BryGer]

Ok, I will try the soak and bang method. The shoes there are fine, especially since they can't be adjusted... I don't think the right rear shoes are biting down much, if at all.

[vdubyah73]

If you use a penetrating oil on the adjusters you will have to take the brakes apart to at least clean the shoes with brake cleen. Scrub em with copious amounts of brake cleen, wipe dry and do again. You really should just do the rear brakes on both sides and be done with it, but I do understand budgets.

[Sokolov]

If you get everything apart and a put it back together, use that nickel-based anti-seize goop on moving parts (e-brake hardware) and any nuts/bolts.  We use it on pretty much everything that has threads and it makes life SO MUCH HAPPIER if and when we have to take it apart again.  This is especially true of the left rear axle nut... that bastard. 

[BryGer]

Speak of the devil..... Now it is high time for a full blown brake job, at least on the left side. I got the stars on the right to move a bit, so that side is actually breaking now. But the left side has just the thinnest bit of break pad left, and I DON'T want to mess up the drums. I need to find a big pipe to get around the handle of my pipe wrench and get me and my lady to stand on the other end, and probably hop a bit.... What else can I expect to need?  Wheel puller? Can I get the drum off without one? Aught else? Does the left side have left handed threads? Muir is a bit vague here.... One place he says on the the left hand side they are lefthanded threads, but for the the rear wheel removal procedure he says to push counterclockwise on both rear wheel nuts, implying NOT left handed threads. As near as I can tell by staring at them, they are not lefties, but I could be wrong.

[Sokolov]

Speak of the devil..... Now it is high time for a full blown brake job, at least on the left side. I got the stars on the right to move a bit, so that side is actually breaking now. But the left side has just the thinnest bit of break pad left, and I DON'T want to mess up the drums. I need to find a big pipe to get around the handle of my pipe wrench and get me and my lady to stand on the other end, and probably hop a bit.... What else can I expect to need?  Wheel puller? Can I get the drum off without one? Aught else? Does the left side have left handed threads? Muir is a bit vague here.... One place he says on the the left hand side they are lefthanded threads, but for the the rear wheel removal procedure he says to push counterclockwise on both rear wheel nuts, implying NOT left handed threads. As near as I can tell by staring at them, they are not lefties, but I could be wrong.

Wheel puller?  Maybe.  Some drums come off like buttah and others well, don't.  I think CV axles are the same as my swings but NO, it's not a lefthand nut.  Because of this, it is most likely REALLY REALLY stuck on the left side and almost falling off the right.  Get a big ass ratchet and a socket that fits your nut.  With the bus still on the ground, engage the emergency brake as hard as you feel safe and put it in 4th.  Chock the wheels if you wanna.  Have someone stand on the brake pedal if that's not enough.  Point is, you need that wheel NOT to be able to move, and when you're putting several hundred foot pounds of torque on it that is a hard task indeed.

Now put a long pipe over the ratchet and stand, jump, dance, do whatever you need to to work that left nut loose.  Soak it in WD-40 a day or two beforehand.  Use heat carefully as we've stripped the axle threads off before when my dad got overzealous with the torch.  If that nut hasn't been off in a while, it WILL be a huge pain to get off.  This is because as the wheel turns, it inadvertently tightens it up. 

Oh - I'm probably supposed to say this too... do both sides at the same time.  

[Fastmc25]

Speak of the devil..... Now it is high time for a full blown brake job, at least on the left side. I got the stars on the right to move a bit, so that side is actually breaking now. But the left side has just the thinnest bit of break pad left, and I DON'T want to mess up the drums. I need to find a big pipe to get around the handle of my pipe wrench and get me and my lady to stand on the other end, and probably hop a bit.... What else can I expect to need?  Wheel puller? Can I get the drum off without one? Aught else? Does the left side have left handed threads? Muir is a bit vague here.... One place he says on the the left hand side they are lefthanded threads, but for the the rear wheel removal procedure he says to push counterclockwise on both rear wheel nuts, implying NOT left handed threads. As near as I can tell by staring at them, they are not lefties, but I could be wrong.

Rear drum nuts are lefty loosy........... righty tighty......  They are normally 240 lbs. torqued......  I use the Hammer tool for them to remove them .... you can get one from (Pardon me) "EMPI" somewhere... My 73 has the bigger nuts  46mm (of course) .......as is the '71 .


Here is the tool...  http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=731745



With that tool , abreaker bar and a hammer you can get them loose...............  Many times they aren't tight enough from previous work done.....

They should pull off by hand.... no puller needed..... if your brake stars are stuck you may have problems getting the shoes backed down to remove the drum....

[rastafoo]

I notice the newest mid america motorworks catalogue has a 46mm socket (3/4 inch breaker size) for $10 I believe. I've already bought the bar and plan on getting that one.