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[January 03, 2009, 09:07:03 PM] rusty71:  We have a 1971 VW Bus and would like to shorten it.  Does anyone out there know how to cut the bus in half.  Do you have 

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Author Topic: Brakes and a half  (Read 604 times)
olylawnboy
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Location: Oly Wa
Type: 68 Panel
Name: Winnie the Blue
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Topic starter
Long Live the Vw's...


« on: July 08, 2008, 02:52:12 AM »

Awhile back I rebuilt all my wheel cyliders and replaced my shoes and questioned if I should replace the master cylinder mater of coarse. And at the time I didn't. Then half of my master cylinder went south. So as I was putting in the new master c I saw that two of my wheel cylinders were leaking slightly. So I decided to just replace all the wheel cylinders along with the master. I also put on the upper resivore that I needed to do. I thought my brakes were good to begin with, but now, wow, just great for drums Smiley
Anyway do you guys have an opinion on DOT 5 brake fluid? My amarican motorhead buddy said that it's the spit of brake fluid and all the seals will now out live me Smiley meaning, in the life of Winnie (and me Smiley), under normal condititions, I should only have to replace shoes at best in my lifetime. For what it's worth, it took three eight buck bottles to purge all the DOT3 out of the system....Later Guys   
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vdubyah73
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Location: Cape Cod, Mass
Type: 77 deluxe
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CHANGE THOSE FUEL LINES, ALL OF THEM.


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« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2008, 06:59:35 AM »

Question DOT 5 compatibility with DOT 3 seals 
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olylawnboy
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Long Live the Vw's...


« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2008, 01:40:46 AM »

So Bill, is there a compatability problem with DOT5 and the seals that you know of?
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vdubyah73
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Location: Cape Cod, Mass
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CHANGE THOSE FUEL LINES, ALL OF THEM.


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« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2008, 12:33:14 PM »

http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint1.shtml
Tech Tip: Brake fluid debate

The simple fact that there is a debate on it, and questions of compatibility with a dot3/4 systems seals make me question the use of it. Dot3/4 was good enough back then it's good enough now for me. I'm not a stock nazi by any means. I'm more about reliability when I redo a VW, stock correctness means nothing to me. I use hardware store bits to make things work again.   
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Dj:Eep
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I think I brained my damage.


« Reply #4 on: July 19, 2008, 11:37:51 PM »

I knew a VW dood in SF who swore by the stuff, used it even in his '59 panel, and rep'd for a manufacturer of it.  He did say it was best to use all new parts, or flush reeeaaaalllly well.  Said the weakness in dot 5 was it's compatibility with dot 3/4 fluid itself, so as long as it wasn't mixed , it was fine. 
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itlives
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« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2008, 06:09:17 AM »

Seems I read somewhere that you should replace DOT5 every two years. I think it was in a thread on TS.
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itlives
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« Reply #6 on: July 24, 2008, 06:15:13 AM »

Posted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 7:28 pm    Post subject:     

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
For our applications the only real benefit to dot5 is that it does not harm paint. While dot 5 is a "high perf" brake fluid remember that unlike dot3 moisture is not absorbed into the fluid but instead puddles in low areas where it can boil off resulting in a spongy pedal or loss opf brakes and also corrode brake components internally. Dot5 should be flushed and replaced each year. Keep in mind that air bubbles that get caught in the dot5 take a lot longer to come out of suspension. Pump the brakes slowly when bleeding.
I am running dot5 in my Phoenix buggy due to the artwork on the body. I started with a new system and it has only had dot5. It took 3 master cyl before I got one that would seal using dot5. The first 2 leaked around the pushrod. The pedal has never felt as good as my other buggies and cars using dot3. Try bench bleeding the master before installing it then slowly bleed the system starting with the furthest wheel from the master {line distance} and working your way to the closest. Also depending on the year you might have to remove the front wheel cylinders from the backing plates and restrict cylinder movement so you can turn them bleeder screw up. My 68 Kyote on 65 link pin chassis is like this. When the front cylinders are installed it is impossible to bleed the air out of them as they are mounted vertically on the trailing side of the backing plates instead of on the top side.
Hope this helps
 
This is from the thread (I found it)on theSamba. Hope it helps.
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