BusDriver
LoveMyBus Recruit
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Location: Oregon Country
Type: 74 Westfalia
Name: Maggie
Posts: 56
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« on: June 18, 2008, 01:17:46 PM » |
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My front right disc brake is binding. It wasn't bad before, but then I tried pumping the brakes to free it and just made it worse. So much worse, that now when driving, the bus will veer right if I'm not holding the steering wheel.
Are my pads supposed to touch the rotor during normal operation or is there supposed to be a small gap? Would anyone advise against taking off the caliper and using a C-clamp to push the pads back in? Also what are my risks of further damage (warped rotor, etc.) if I drive it around 2 miles home?
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Bringing back a 74 Westy after 3 years of sitting. Running strong after 92 days of LMB!
17MPG(I think) - 009 Dizzy, Electric Fuel Pump, Weber 32/36 DFAV carb, Short in some component in the 7th Fuse, rust, rust, rust.
All Awesome.
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GostaBerling
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« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2008, 01:48:57 PM » |
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The first thing to determine is which side is rubbing. If it is the outer pad, you may be able to get away with just removing the caliper and greasing the pins. If it is the interior side, then the caliper will need to be rebuilt or replaced.
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"I became an archaeologist because I wanted to drive around in a big Land Rover, smoking, cursing, and finding treasure." - Carmel Schrire Check out Willy's blog: Life and Adventures of a bus named Willoughby http://willoughbus.wordpress.com/ |
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BusDriver
LoveMyBus Recruit
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Location: Oregon Country
Type: 74 Westfalia
Name: Maggie
Posts: 56
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« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2008, 02:15:11 PM » |
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So I'm going to assume the pads are not supposed to touch the rotor. In my case they are both touching the rotor because I see no light through either side of the rotor/pad touching surfaces.
And do both sides have a piston or just the inside?
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Logged
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Bringing back a 74 Westy after 3 years of sitting. Running strong after 92 days of LMB!
17MPG(I think) - 009 Dizzy, Electric Fuel Pump, Weber 32/36 DFAV carb, Short in some component in the 7th Fuse, rust, rust, rust.
All Awesome.
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GostaBerling
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« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2008, 02:44:34 PM » |
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Sorry, I was wrong. Looks like you should have dual pistons (one on each side). You can try to recompress them but most likely they will just stick again immediately. I would suggest not driving the bus again until you can replace them.
There is also the possibility that dirt or rust has accumulated on the sliding surfaces of the caliper. The only way to tell is to pull them off and clean them up.
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"I became an archaeologist because I wanted to drive around in a big Land Rover, smoking, cursing, and finding treasure." - Carmel Schrire Check out Willy's blog: Life and Adventures of a bus named Willoughby http://willoughbus.wordpress.com/ |
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BusDriver
LoveMyBus Recruit
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Location: Oregon Country
Type: 74 Westfalia
Name: Maggie
Posts: 56
Topic starter
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« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2008, 11:54:06 PM » |
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I took it to the shop, I was too impatient to figure everything out. They ended up putting in new calipers and new brake lines to the front. They also told me my rear drums were not in good shape and I should change some parts in those too. A little less than $400, but I was able to go out for my first long drive today ~100miles and everything was smooth for the most part. A few rattles here and there but nothing too loud and destructive sounding.
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Logged
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Bringing back a 74 Westy after 3 years of sitting. Running strong after 92 days of LMB!
17MPG(I think) - 009 Dizzy, Electric Fuel Pump, Weber 32/36 DFAV carb, Short in some component in the 7th Fuse, rust, rust, rust.
All Awesome.
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GostaBerling
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« Reply #5 on: June 23, 2008, 06:21:41 AM » |
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Wow $400  Jeezz!! Brakes are one of the easiest things to do on a vehicle. If you would have done it yourself you could have saved between $200-$300. But at least your bus is back on the road and you can enjoy him. |
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"I became an archaeologist because I wanted to drive around in a big Land Rover, smoking, cursing, and finding treasure." - Carmel Schrire Check out Willy's blog: Life and Adventures of a bus named Willoughby http://willoughbus.wordpress.com/ |
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BusDriver
LoveMyBus Recruit
Offline
Location: Oregon Country
Type: 74 Westfalia
Name: Maggie
Posts: 56
Topic starter
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« Reply #6 on: June 23, 2008, 08:46:58 AM » |
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Yeah it was a time thing. But I do wish I had done it myself now, or at least had them do the rear drums instead since they seem more complicated than just swapping out calipers and brake lines. Time to read up ratwell for how to change the suggested shoes, hoses, and cylinders on the rear drums.
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Logged
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Bringing back a 74 Westy after 3 years of sitting. Running strong after 92 days of LMB!
17MPG(I think) - 009 Dizzy, Electric Fuel Pump, Weber 32/36 DFAV carb, Short in some component in the 7th Fuse, rust, rust, rust.
All Awesome.
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rastafoo
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« Reply #7 on: June 23, 2008, 04:14:01 PM » |
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I have replaced all these things too (calipers, pads, shoes, rear wheel brake cylinders, all 4 rubber brake hoses) without having previously worked on any vehicle before - it was slightly intimidating at first, but now I know my brake system thouroughly and it's no sweat!
The parts all came to about $120 at the most.
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"spirit is the journey, body is the bus"
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BusDriver
LoveMyBus Recruit
Offline
Location: Oregon Country
Type: 74 Westfalia
Name: Maggie
Posts: 56
Topic starter
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« Reply #8 on: June 23, 2008, 04:43:35 PM » |
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Where did you get your calipers and how long ago? I saw them at autozone for around 90 a piece, when I was looking last week.
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Logged
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Bringing back a 74 Westy after 3 years of sitting. Running strong after 92 days of LMB!
17MPG(I think) - 009 Dizzy, Electric Fuel Pump, Weber 32/36 DFAV carb, Short in some component in the 7th Fuse, rust, rust, rust.
All Awesome.
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